Research on the Cognition Degree of Non-material Cultural
Heritage about Textile in Our Country
Guan Liujun
1
, Zhao Hong
1
and Jiang Hong
2
1
The Modern Textile Industry Innovation Research Center, Tianjin Polytechnic University, Tianjin, China
2
Economic college, Tianjin Polytechnic University, 300387, Tianjin, China
Keywords: “Non-legacy” about Textile, Cognition; Questionnaire Survey, Measures.
Abstract: Non-material cultural heritages about textile (hereinafter referred to as “non-legacy” about textile) about
textile is an significant part of non-material cultural heritages (hereinafter referred to as “non-legacy” ),
which play a important role in the traditional national cultural continuation. But through the questionnaire
and relevant data analysis, we found that people’s cognition degree of “non-legacy” about textile is not high,
needs to be strengthened. In order to deepen the public’s cognition degree of “non-legacy” about textile, and
from four aspects: colleges and universities, the public, enterprises, government, and the relevant measures
are put forward in the thesis.
1 INTRODUCTION
1.1 Definition
“Non-legacy” about textile don’t have a accurate and
clear definition in academia at present, and in this
paper they are defined as the general name for the
“non-legacy” including textile technology (which
associates with textiles and apparels, shoes, hats and
accessories), traditional patterns and artistic design
and so on, and mainly including unique manual
skills, which carry local customs and living habits
such as traditional fabric, embroidery, printing,
dyeing, twill, luo, silk, satin and so on.
1.2 Characteristics
“Non-legacy” about textile present the following
characteristics: internal immateriality and external
materiality, uniqueness of the cultural roots, living
and rheological property of inheritance, etc (Li
Qiang, 2008).
Internal non-materiality is the core feature of the
“non-legacy” about textile. Non-materiality is a kind
of creative activity in the spiritual realm, whose
purpose is to meet the demand of people's spiritual
life, and this is the spiritual core of the “ non-legacy”
about textile, not has nothing to do with materiality,
but rather to exist in non-material forms.
External materiality refers to the characteristics
whose existence rely to the“matter” factors, without
the “matter” factors, it is impossible to understand
“non-legacy” about textile comprehensively and
correctly. Most of the exhibitions involving in the
“non-legacy” about textile are inseparable from the
material carrier.
Uniqueness of the cultural roots refers to the
uniqueness of thought,emotion, consciousness, value
reflected by “non-legacy”about textile indirectly.
Table 1 shows that any national “non-legacy” about
textile has a unique and traditional factor, cultural
genes and national memory, and it is the power of
national survival and development.
59
Liujun G., Hong J. and Hong Z.
Research on the Cognition Degree of Non-material Cultural Heritage about Textile in Our Country.
DOI: 10.5220/0006019100590064
In Proceedings of the Information Science and Management Engineering III (ISME 2015), pages 59-64
ISBN: 978-989-758-163-2
Copyright
c
 2015 by SCITEPRESS – Science and Technology Publications, Lda. All rights reserved
59

Table 1 The regional and national situation of the first
batch of state-level “non-legacy” about textile.
“Non-legacy” about textile
Nationality Areas
The wooden-loom Zhuang
Hua with hand-woven
technology of brocade
Han
nationality Nanjing
Songjin, Kesi weaving
technique
Han
nationality
Suzhou
Shu brocade weaving
techniques
Han
nationality
Chengdu
Wunijing manual cotton
textile craft
Han
nationality
Xuhui
Shangha
The blue calico dyeing
techniques of Nantong
Han
nationality
Nantong
Tujia brocade techniques
Tujia
nationality
Xiangxi
autonomous
The traditional textile
embroidery art of
Li nationality
Li
nationality
Wuzhishan
Hainan
Brocade techniques of
Zhuang nationality
Zhuang
nationality
Jingxi,
Guangxi
Bangdian, Kadian weaving
techniques
Zang
nationality
Shannan area
Tibet
Zang nationality blanket
weaving skills of Jiaya
Zang
nationality
Huangzhong
Qinghai
Wax printing craft of Miao
nationality
Miao
nationality
Danzhai
Guizhou
Tie-dye techniques of Bai
nationality
Bai
nationality
Dali, Yunnan
Live property of inheritance means that although
“non-legacy” about textile have the material factors
and carriers, substance configuration is not the main
way to reflect its value, and creation and inheritance
mainly through the behavior activities, for instance,
people’s performance, some subtle techniques. The
rheological property of inheritance means that the
“non-legacy” changes about textiles are a process
beyond the will of human beings. For the sake of
harmonizing the conflict with the new culture, the
traditional culture will continuously adjust structure,
actively apply themselves to the changes of the
humanities and natural environment at the same time,
constantly achieve innovation, and form inheritance
variation (Teng Haitao, 2009).
2 RATIONALE
There are a number of researches about cognition at
home and abroad, and the foreign scholars mainly
focus on the theoretical research about cognition, but
domestic scholars’ research are mainly aimed at
different main bodies of the cognition, but not much
related to “non-legacy” about textile, and Table2 and
Table 3 are the representative samples.
Table 2 The summary of research on cognition abroad.
Related literature
Research conclusions
Ke11y Mclennan
(1994)
The participation and performance
about the individual behavior were
positively correlated with cognition
level and height.
Hristo Bojinov
2014
Hristo Bojinov put forward that the
concept of implicit learning from the
cognitive psychology. And implicit
learning refers to learning knowledge
without any consciousness.
Table 3 The summary of research on cognition at home.
Related literature Research conclusions
Lihua Liu
2009
Residents in Shengyang have a low
overall “non-legacy” cognition. The
main factors of influencing citizens’
heritage cognition are the degree of
education, age , occupation.
AipingXu
2011
The major factors of affecting the
overall cognition in festival activities
are the degree of identification,
loyalty, reputation and perception.
Yangyang Zhang,
2013
Consumers’ cognition of ecological
textiles is generally insufficient in
Chengdu Comfort degree is still the
main purchase factor.
3 QUESTIONNAIRE DESIGN
AND RESEARCH
3.1 Questionnaire Design
There are two parts in the questionnaire, one is the
basic information, which involves in 11 questions,
the other are the subjective questions, in all of 37,
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The recycling and distribution situation of the
questionnaire is shown in Table 4.
Table 4: The situation of the questionnaire’s recycling and
distribution.
Number of
questionnaire
Number of
recycling
Effective
questionnaire
Response
rate
260 260 255 98.08%
3.2 Survey Object and Scope
The objects of investigation involve in the Party and
government institutions, enterprises and institutions,
science and technology personnel about commerce,
college students and faculty in Tianjin, and in which
college students posses quite a number of specific
gravity, because they have the direct experience of
Chinese culture, to a certain extent, their feelings of
“non-legacy” about textile are representative.
4 THE INVESTIGATION RESULT
ANALYSIS
4.1 The Low Cognition Degree of
“Non-legacy” List about Textile
Table 5: The investigation results of “non-legacy” list
about textile.
Is there “non-legacy” about
textile in your hometown?
Do you know about the
“non-legacy” about textile?
Yes 29% Never 45%
No 27%
Yes, know a little 44%
Unclear 44%
Yes, know very well 11%
In the sample of objects, 44% don't know whether
their hometown have the “non-legacy” about textile
at all, not to mention “non-legacy” lists about textile,
besides, 45% have never heard of the “non-legacy”
about textile, don’t understand the category of them.
The main reason for this kind of phenomenon is that
the public’s cognition in the concept of “non-legacy”
about textile is fuzzy, just stay on the academic term.
4.2 Obviously Insufficient Cognition
about the “Non-legacy” Festival
Figure:4—1: The investigation results of cognition about
the “non-legacy” festival.
In China, the second Saturday of June every year is
the “non-legacy” festival. Among 260 respondents,
only 20% is right, of course, it does not rule out the
possibility of good fortune. It has been eight years
since the first national “non-legacy” festival had its
brand opening in Chengdu on May 23, 2007, but
until now 80% don't know which day is the
“non-legacy” festival. People are always paying
attention to the forms on that day, which only leave a
lively atmosphere of the festival to the public and
cause people only to know the festival, but don’t
know which day is the festival.
4.3 The Single Transmission Route of
“Non-legacy” about Textile
Figure 4—2: The investigation results of the transmission
route of “non-legacy” about textile.
The figure 4—2 shows that 20% of the respondents
think that relying on the official medias such as
radio, television, increasing the public welfare
propaganda activities organized by government can
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make people have a better understanding of the
“non-legacy” about textile, but the power of the
official media is limited, only relying on the official
media will appear the following phenomenons:
narrow transmission route and coverage. So we
should broaden the propaganda channel actively and
start folk strength, put the propaganda and protection
work of “non-legacy” about textile into practice.
4.4 Know less of Textile “Non-legacy”
Protection Work Abroad
Figure 4—3: The investigation results of cognition on the
“non-legacy” protection work about textile abroad.
The answers to the “non-legacy” protection work
about textile abroad were unsatisfied. As shown in
Figure 4—3, and 69% don’t have a good
understanding of the “non-legacy” protection work
about textile abroad, and the people of not knowing
reach 23%, only 8% know well about it. There are
two reasons can account for it, one is that domestic
people pay less attention to “non-legacy” protection
about textile abroad, the other is that communication
and cooperation in “non-legacy” protection work
about textile is seldom at home and abroad.
4.5 Insufficient Cognition of the
“Non-Legacy” Product and Value
about Textile
In the aspect of cognition degree of the “non-legacy”
product about textile, among the factors which
prompt people to buy “non-legacy” product about
textile, the intrinsic value just accounts for 19%; In
regard to cognition about the value of “non-legacy”
about textile, 13% of people hold a opinion that it is
the same as the ordinary textiles, only 21% of people
consider that it is a national art. And the public don’t
have a system cognition on the “non-legacy” about
textile, only limited in the extrinsic value such as the
hand feeling, environmental protection sign, color,
material quality, price and so on.
Table 6 The survey result of cognition in the “non-legacy”
product and value about textile.
What prompt you to buy
product of “non-legacy”
about textile?
How do you think the
value of “non-legacy”
about textile?
Product promotion 25%
The same as the ordinary
textiles 13%
Intrinsic value 19%
It is unique 34%
Product properties 11%
It is a national art 21%
Others' recommendation 15%
It has a higher collection
value 13%
Brand value 15%
It
has a high national
representation 18%
Price 15%
Others 1%
5 THE COUNTERMEASURES
AND SUGGESTIONS
5.1 The Public Should Improve Their
Own Cultural Cultivation Actively
Needless to say, public’s “non-legacy”cognition on
textile will be constricted by the degree of education
inevitably, without receiving a good education, what
they see are just the superficial things, ignoring the
intrinsic value.The public enlarge their knowledge of
the “non-legacy” about textile and improve cultural
cultivation by means of referring relevant books and
information, visiting the museum and the heritage of
the“non-legacy”about textile directly.
5.2 The Local Government Should Pay
More Attention to the “Non-legacy”
about Textile
The local government should pay attention to the
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“non-legacy” about textile from the following four
aspects.
Firstly, propaganda forms should be diversified.
The local government not only uses the traditional
medias but also makes full use of the power of the
Internet to set up a official microblog and WeChat
number of the “non-legacy”about textile. Secondly,
supply more financial support for the “non-legacy”
about textile. Some core provinces and cities such as
Shanghai, Hunan, Jiangsu, Sichuan , should set an
example. Thirdly, a regional system of “non-legacy”
list about textile should be established. A four level
list protection system should be set up by the local
government , which involves in national, provincial,
municipal, county. Fourthly, draw a lesson from the
foreign advanced propaganda protection experiences
and practices of the “non-legacy”about textile. For
example, it is worth to learn and use for reference
that Italian devolves the power and guides the
non-governmental organization to participate in the
“non-legacy” protection work actively. Fifthly,
cultivate inheritors of the “non-legacy” about textile
actively, avoid the phenomenon that when a man
dies his techniques will be cast away. First of all, the
local government ought to take care of inheritors in
the life aspect. In the next place, expand the scope of
the inheritance and attract more willing people to
participate the “non-legacy” protection work about
textile(Liu Xiaolin, 2011). Finally, life-tenure system
of the “non-legacy” must be broken.
5.3 The Enterprises Should Unify
Market Value and Historical and
Cultural Value of the Textile
“Non-legacy” Product Organically
5.3.1 Broaden the “Non-legacy” Product
Market about Textile
Different from the ordinary textiles,“non-legacy”
product about textile has precious historical and
cultural value, so propaganda them emphatically
when broaden product market, make them become
the main factors when consumers buy “non-legacy”
product about textile.Besides, marketization and
industrialization of the “non-legacy” product about
textile must be accelerated moderately: in the first
place, enterprises should focus on quality and
service level of “non-legacy” products about textile.
In the second place, cater to consumers’ thought that
“good quality good price”, “cheap goods in not
good”, take the premium strategy. Finally, make
improvements on product packaging and the
cognition of product quality.
5.3.2 Try to Shape the Famous Brand of the
“Non-legacy Product about Textile
Enterprises should build the famous brand of
“non-legacy” products about textile according to the
four steps of brand construction, brand name , brand
awareness, brand association and brand loyalty. In
terms of brand name and awareness, enterprises
should produce the “non-legacy” boutique about
textile, at the same time uses the media for brand
propaganda scientifically; in the aspect of brand
association, the unique aspect of the “non-legacy”
product about textile should be presented to
consumers with the purpose of creating unique brand
association; In aspect of brand loyalty, enterprises
should meet consumers’ needs humanized, focus on
product innovation and consumers’ communication
effectively.
5.4 Colleges and Universities Should
Strengthen Traditional Culture
Education for Students
5.4.1 Establish and Improve “Non-legacy’’
Curriculum System about Textile
Gradually
The general education staffs in colleges and
universities should put the local characteristic of
“non-legacy” culture about textile into teaching to
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cultivate a batch of professional talents of the
“non-legacy” about textile(Wang Dandan, 2011).
When condition permitting, some colleges and
universities can consider to set up the “non-legacy”
research base, for example, Donghua University,
Tianjin Polytechnic University , Wuhan Textile
University and so on.
5.4.2 Encourage Students to Set up the
“Non-legacy” Social Organizations
about Textile
College students should be encouraged to set up
“non-legacy”organizations about textile, and bring
“non-legacy” about textile from different provinces
and different levels into campus, combined with
significant campus culture festival, so that it can
make college students participate in “non-legacy”
publicity about textile personally through social
organizations.
5.4.3 Organize More “Non-legacy” Lectures
and Knowledge Competition about
Textile
Colleges and universities can invite “non-legacy”
inheritors about textile to instruct and influence
students by their words and deeds in the college
campus, even employ them as part-time professor
for students, or make Su embroidery, Shu brocade,
Xiang embroidery, then incorporate them into daily
teaching activity. Besides, schools can also hold
regular “non-legacy” knowledge competition about
textile and give spiritual and material rewards to the
winners.
5.4.4 Build a Professional Teaching Team
Textile “non-legacy” teaching needs a teaching team
whose construction is reasonable and morality is
good. It requires teachers in colleges and universities
combined with inheritors to participate in the
teaching hand in hand, form a professional textile
“non-legacy” teaching team who has theory
&practice and college teachers &the inheritors.
6 CONCLUSIONS
Improving people’s “non-legacy” cognition degree
of textile needs the public, government, enterprises,
colleges and universities work together.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This paper is sponsored by Tianjin philosophy and
social sciences planning project<<the research of the
government security system in the “non-legacy”
protection about textile>>(TJGL13-004)
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