Anti-aging Activity of Cream Ethanol Extract of Ethyl Acetate

Fraction of Purple Passion Fruit Peel

(Passiflora edulis Sims.)

Julia Reveny

,Sudarmi

and Herawaty Ginting

Faculty of Pharmacy, Universitas Sumatera Utara Medan, 20155, Indonesia

Keyword: Purple Passion Fruit Peel, Cream, Anti-aging.

Abstract: The purpose of this study was the anti-ageing activity test of ethanol extract cream ethyl acetate fraction of

purple passion fruit peel. Purple passion fruit peel contains flavonoids that functions as antioxidants which

has not been widely used as an anti-ageing ingredient. Creamy preparations are chosen because they have

good skin penetration and are easily applied. The results showed that the ethyl acetate fraction of purple

passion fruit peel ethanol extract can be formulated into a homogeneous cream with an oil-in-water emulsion

type. pH 6.83-7.03, does not cause skin irritation and is stable in storage for 90 days room temperature. Ethanol

extract cream of ethyl acetate fraction purple passion fruit peel 12.5% showed the best anti-ageing

effectiveness with increasing water content by 95%, pore-shrinking by 63.84%, reducing stains by 60.85%

and reducing wrinkles by 65.01%. This beneficial effect of flavonoids may be due to its antioxidant and anti-

ageing properties.

1 INTRODUCTION

Aging is a natural process in human life. Aging

closely related to various degenerative processes. The

process of premature aging is characterized by the

face usually seen wrinkle, dry and rough skin, patches

of aging / pigmentation and skin elasticity decreases.

In people who experience premature aging will be

more susceptible to degenerative diseases (Moini H,

2002).

Sunlight is a major exogenous factor that can

cause skin aging (photoaging), where excessive sun

exposure can lead to various skin damage, because the

photobiologic effects of UVA and UVB that cause

free radicals will damage the structure of the skin and

cause DNA damage and reduce the response immune.

In addition, other external factors can increase free

radicals such as x-rays, pollution, cigarettes,

peticides, smoking, alcoholic beverages, medicines

and unbalanced nutrition and others (Ardhie, 2011).

Purple passion peel skin extract is antioxidant

(Wong, at al., 2014). The purple passion fruitpeel

extract contains polyphenolic and flavanoid

compounds (Gindting, at al., 2016). These

antioxidants serve to prevent premature aging and

maintain body vitality (Setiaji and Prayugo, 2006).

Based on the above points the authors are

interested to conduct research on the formulation of

anti-aging cream from ethanol extract of purple

passion fruit ethyl acetate fraction (Passiflora edulis

sims).

2 RESEARCH METHODS

2.1 Materials

The tools used: skin analyzer, porcelain mortar,

stamfer, porcelain cup, glass tools, water bath, pH

meter, and analytical balance. stearic acid, cetyl

alcohol, vaseline, liquid paraffin, isopropyl palmitate,

glycerine, triethanolamine, methyl paraben, perfume,

distilled water, purple passion fruit peel extract

(Passiflora edulis sims), methyl blue, acid pH buffer

solution (pH 4.01), buffer solution of neutral pH (pH

7.01).

2.2 Formula

R/Stearic acid 15%

Cetyl alcohol 10%

Vaseline 10%

1008

Reveny, J., Sudarmi, . and Ginting, H.

Anti-aging Activity of Cream Ethanol Extract of Ethyl Acetate Fraction of Purple Passion Fruit Peel (Passiﬂora edulis Sims.).

DOI: 10.5220/0010092310081014

In Proceedings of the International Conference of Science, Technology, Engineering, Environmental and Ramiﬁcation Researches (ICOSTEERR 2018) - Research in Industry 4.0, pages

1008-1014

ISBN: 978-989-758-449-7

Mineral Oil 12%

Isopropyl palmitate 12%

Glycerin 5%

Triethanolamine 1%

Perfume qs

Preservative qs

Aquadest ad 100%

The concentration of purple passion fruit peel

extract used in the preparation of anti-aging cream is

2.5; 7.5; 10 and 12.5%

2.3 Procedure

Weighed material, separate the material into two

groups: the oil phase and the water phase. The oil

phase consists of stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, vaseline,

paraffin, isopropyl palmitate melted on a water bath

with a temperature of 70ºC. The water phase

comprising glycerin, triethanolamine and methyl

paraben is dissolved in hot water that has been

measured at a temperature of 70 ° C (mass II). Soaked

mortal and pestle in hot water, then dry the mortar and

pestle, insert the mass I into the mortal, then enter the

mass II constant crushed to form a cream mass. After

forming a mass of cream, added ethanol extract of

purple passion fruit ethyl acetate fraction (Passiflora

edulis sims), crushed homogenous. Added 3 drops of

perfume, homogenized to form a mass of cream. The

preparation was carried out in the same manner for all

formulas with ethanol extract concentrations of

different purple passion fruit ethyl fractions.

2.4 Inspection of Cream Preparations

Homogenity

As stated in Pharmacopoeia Indonesia (Ditjen POM.,

1979).

2.5 Type of Emulsion

As stated in the Indonesian Cosmetics Formulary

(Ditjen POM., 1985).

2.6 pH

Determination of pH of the preparation is done by

using pH meter. The device was first calibrated by

using a neutral pH buffer solution (pH 7.01) and an

acid pH buffer solution (pH 4.01) until the apparatus

showed the pH value. Then the electrode is washed

with distilled water, then dried with tissue. The

sample was prepared in 1% concentration which was

weighed 1 gram of dosage and dissolved in 99 ml

distilled water. Then the electrode is immersed in the

solution. Let the tool show the pH price to constant.

The number indicated by pH meter is the pH of the

preparation (Rawlins, 2002).

2.7 Stability

Cream formula was inserted into a plastic pot, stored

at room temperature and measured stability

parameters such as odor, color, and pH were

evaluated for 12 weeks storage with observation

every 2 weeks (National Health Surveillance Agency,

2005).

2.8 Viscosity

The viscosity of the cream preparation was

determined by Viscometer Myr VR 3000.

Comparison of Dispersion Phase (PFD), divided into:

1. Low PFD a / m (m / a), if the PFD is smaller than

30%

2. PFD is a / m (m / a), if PFD 30-70%

3. High PFD a / m (m / a), if the PFD is greater than

74%

2.9 Anti-aging Activity

Anti-aging activity test using 18 volunteers and

divided into 6 groups. All volunteers measured skin,

measured early skin conditions include: water

content, large pores, spot, wrinkles using a skin

analyzer. After initial skin condition measurement,

treatment begins with a cream smear evenly on the

entire face, cream applied topically by the above-

defined group, the application is done 2 times a day

for 4 weeks. Skin condition changes were measured

weekly for 4 weeks using a skin analyzer.

3 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

3.1 Homogenity

Homogeneity of anti-aging cream containing

ethanolic extract of ethyl acetate fraction of purple

passion fruit peel (Passiflora edulis sims) it was found

that all cream preparations don’t be found coarse

grains.The results for homogeneity of blank cream,

purple passion fruit peel extract cream2,5%; 5%;

7,5%; 10% and 12,5%:

Anti-aging Activity of Cream Ethanol Extract of Ethyl Acetate Fraction of Purple Passion Fruit Peel (Passiﬂora edulis Sims.)

1009

Figure 1:The results for homogeneity of blank cream; 2,5%;

5%; 7,5%; 10% and 12%.

3.2 Type of Emulsion

The determination of the emulsion type is done by

staining the cream preparation by mixing the methyl

blue into each of the created anti-aging creams, the

methyl soluble blue when stirred, the type of emulsion

in the cream preparation made is the type of oil-in-

water emulsion.

Table 1: The result Solubility in methyl blue.

No Formula

Solubility in methyl blue

Yes No

1 F0  −

2 F1  −

3 F2  −

4 F3  −

5 F4  −

6 F5  −

Figure 2: The results for homogeneity of blank cream;

2,5%; 5%; 7,5%; 10% and 12%.

3.3 Ph

Table 2: The result of pH.

F Observation (Week)

0 1 2 3 4 12

0 7,67 7,50 7,20 7,03 7,10 7,10

1 7,30 7,23 7,03 7,07 7,17 7,03

2 7,43 7,33 7,17 7,30 7,27 7,03

3 7,20 7,30 7,27 7,17 7,10 7,10

4 7,13 7,20 7,17 7,07 7,10 7,03

5 6,7 6,87 6,83 6,77 6,77 6,83

The result of pH measurement of each formula

shows that with increasing concentration of ethanol

extract of purple passion fruit ethyl acetate fraction

(Passiflora edulis sims), the pH of the preparation is

lower, but the change is still in standard pH

requirement for cream preparation that is between pH

5-8 (Balsam, 1972).

3.4 Stability

Based on the results obtained, indicating that each of

the formulas that have been observed for 90 days

gives good results ie no change in color, odor and

phase separation.

The stability of a pharmaceutical preparation can

be seen from the presence or absence of discoloration

and odor during storage. Such changes may occur if

the ingredients contained in the preparation are

oxidized. Emulsion preparations are said to be

unstable if they are experiencing creaming and

inversion.

3.5 Viscosity

The results cream formula has increased viscosity

with increasing concentration of purple marker skin.

Based on the dispersion phase (PFD) ratio, the purple

markup skin cream extract here belongs to the

moderate PFD ie the particles are still spherical and

arranged regularly so there is still room for

movement.

Table 3: The result of viscosity.

F Rpm Visk. Temp. Range

1 60 2370 27.3 10000

2 60 3010 27.2 10000

3 60 3190 27.4 10000

4 60 3460 27.3 10000

5 60 3463 27.4 10000

6 60 3462 27.4 10000

3.6 Anti-aging Activity

3.6.1 Increase Water Content

The results of the water content in Table show the

initial conditions of skin water content of all groups

of normal volunteers, the first week of treatment of

water content conditions of the skin become more

moist for treated skin with the formula 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

(blanks and concentrations 2.5%; 5%; 7.5%; 10% and

12.5%). The best skin restoration is in a purple 12%

purple skin cream crease because it can increase the

water content better than other creams.

ICOSTEERR 2018 - International Conference of Science, Technology, Engineering, Environmental and Ramiﬁcation Researches

1010

Table 4: The result of increase water content.

F volunteer Mouisture

0 I II III IV

F0 1 22 24 27 29 30

2 23 25 27 30 32

3 23 24 26 28 29

22,6 24,3 26,6 29 30,3

Mouisture increase 34,21 %

F1 1 19 22 24 27 29

2 20 22 25 28 30

3 22 23 24 26 28

20,3 22,3 24,3 27 29

Mouisture increase 42,85 %

F2 1 19 23 25 29 31

2 20 24 28 30 32

3 17 20 25 28 30

18,6 22,3 26 29 31

Mouisture increase 66,6 %

F3 1 17 18 22 26 28

2 13 14 19 24 27

3 15 16 20 23 25

15 16 20,3 24,3 26,6

Mouisture increase 77,3 %

F4 1 17 17 22 27 30

2 19 20 25 30 32

3 13 15 20 25 32

16,3 17,3 22,3 27,3 31,3

Mouisture increase 92,02 %

F5 1 21 20 27 32 36

2 18 19 25 33 40

3 21 22 26 33 41

20 20,3 26 32,6 39

Mouisture increse 95%

Figure 3: the graph of mouisture increase.

Figure 4: the graph of mouisture increase.

Flavonoids can increase extracellular collagen, which

increases the moisture and elasticity of the skin

(Reveny, 2016).

3.6.2 Pore

Table 5: The result of pore descrease.

01234

Blank

2,50%

5,00

7,50

10%

12,50

100

Mouistureincrease(%)

Formula

Mouisture

increase

For-

mula

volunteer

Pore

Application (week)

I II III IV

1 34 34 36 36 36

2 40 40 38 38 38

3 35 37 37 38 40

36.6 37 37 37,3 38

Pore decrease 8,38 %

1 42 40 40 40 39

2 32 32 29 28 27

3 29 27 24 26 24

34,3 33 31 31,3 30

Pore decrease 13,33%

1 36 35 32 28 25

2 28 24 22 21 15

3 40 38 35 30 27

34,6 32,3 29,6 26,3 22,3

Pore decrease 36,49%

1 40 39 34 30 29

2 39 35 32 28 24

3 35 31 26 24 19

38 35 30,6 27,3 24

Pore decrease 37,22%

1 39 32 30 28 24

2 32 25 23 14 11

3 31 27 23 20 18

34 28 25,3 20,6 17,6

Pore decrease 48,67%

1 31 25 20 17 11

2 36 28 23 17 13

3 38 32 23 17 14

35 28,3 22 17 12,6

Pore decrease 63,84S%

Anti-aging Activity of Cream Ethanol Extract of Ethyl Acetate Fraction of Purple Passion Fruit Peel (Passiﬂora edulis Sims.)

1011

Figure 5: the graph of pore descrease.

Figure 6: the graph of pore descrease.

In volunteers using cream with formula F4

(12.5%) had a higher pore increase than the formula

F0, F1, F2, F3, and F5.

Spot

The results of the measurements can be seen in the

Table:

Table 6: The result of spot descrease.

For-

mula

volunteer

Spot

Application (week)

I II III IV

1 32 31 31 30 30

2 27 26 28 26 26

3 32 32 32 33 34

30,3 29,6 30,3 29,6 30

Spot descrease 5.4 %

1 25 25 27 28 31

2 35 34 32 32 29

3 31 29 32 29 27

30,3 29,3 30,3 29,6 29,3

Spot descrease 18.01 %

1 38 35 34 31 29

2 33 30 27 26 23

3 48 45 43 35 28

39,6 36,6 34,6 30,6 26.6

Spot descrease31.88%

1 37 36 34 29 25

2 32 31 27 25 18

3 40 36 33 27 21

36.3 34.3 31.3 27 21.3

Spot descrease41.89 %

1 32 27 24 20 17

2 33 30 28 20 18

3 30 28 21 16 13

31.6 28.3 24.3 18 16

Spot descrease 49.37 %

1 37 30 27 21 13

2 37 33 27 20 14

3 36 33 28 21 16

36.6 33 27.3 20.3 14.3

Spot descrease 60.85 %



Figure 7: the graph of spot descrease.

Figure 8: the graph of spot descrease.

After 4 weeks of anti-aging cream, spot spot

measurements on the volunteers experienced spot

reduction. Formula F4 is better at reducing spot on

face compared with formula F0, F1, F2, F3 and F5.

Flavonoids have an effect as a competitive

inhibitor that inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase that

converts tyrosine into DOPA and Dopakuinon,

thereby inhibiting the amount of increase of the

meanocytes and melanin in the cell. Flavonoids also

have antioxidant effects that serve to protect the skin

from free radicals (Reveny, 2016).

01234

Blanko

2,50%

5,00%

7,50%

10%

12,50

PoreDescrease(%)

Formula

poreDescrease

01234

Blanko

2,50%

5,00%

7,50%

10%

12,50%

Pspotdescrease(%)

Formula

spotdescrease

ICOSTEERR 2018 - International Conference of Science, Technology, Engineering, Environmental and Ramiﬁcation Researches

1012

3.6.3 Wrinkle

Wrinkle measurements were made using the moisture

checker tool contained in the Aramo skin analyzer

device. The results of the measurements contained in

Table 4.6 show the initial conditions of wrinkles in all

volunteer groups. The best skin restoration is in a 12%

purple marker skin cream preparation because it

reduces the amount of wrinkles better than the other

creams.

Flavanoid as an antioxidant that is by inhibiting

the increase in levels of MMP-1 (Matrix

Metaloproteinase-1), which will lead to an increase in

the amount of collagen. Flavanoids inhibit and

prevent skin damage by free radicals caused by UV

rays on the skin, by binding to single oxygen and

inhibiting lipid peroxidation. With the occurrence of

these obstacles MMP-1 synthesis will decrease and

the collagen degradation process is inhibited so that

the skin is protected from the aging process from

UVB exposure (Reveny, 2016).

Table 7: The result of wrinkle descrease.

For-

mula

volunteer

Wrinkle

Application (week)

I II III IV

1 31 30 30 30 30

2 32 31 32 32 32

3 28 27 26 25 25

30.3 29.3 29.3 29 29

Wrinkle descrease 4.29%

1 31 31 30 29 29

2 31 30 30 30 28

3 29 27 28 26 24

30.3 29.3 29.3 27.6 26.6

Wrinkle descrease 12.2%

1 36 35 33 30 29

2 39 37 31 29 27

3 35 33 29 25 20

36.6 35 31 28 25.3

Wrinkle descrease 30.87%

1 33 31 29 24 19

2 36 32 29 22 17

3 33 28 24 21 19

34 30.3 27.3 22.3 18.3

Wrinkle descrease 46.17%

1 31 25 21 17 14

2 35 29 27 21 17

3 25 22 17 12 8

32 27 22.6 19 16

Wrinkle descrease 50 %

1 31 24 17 12 11

2 32 28 22 19 12

3 34 25 24 16 11

32.3 25.6 21 15.6 11.3

Wrinkle descrease 65.01%



Figure 9: the graph of wrinkle descrease.



Figure 10: the graph of wrinkle descrease.

4 CONCLUSIONS

Purple passion fruit peel extracts can be formulated in

homogeneous cream preparations with an oil-in-

water emulsion type, pH 6.7-7.67; does not cause skin

irritation and is stable in storage for 90 days at room

temperature. 12.5% is the best anti-aging

effectiveness makes the water content increase from

dehydration to normal, diameter of pores from several

large to normal, also reduces of spots from many

spots to normal and for wrinkles initialed wrinkles

become non-wrinkles.

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Blank

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