Figure 2: Windrose.
Table 1: Percentage of Speed and Direction of Wind.
So, the biggest wind direction comes from the West
by 25%, after that from the north and east by 24.17%
as given in Table 1 and Figure 2).
Measurement of wind data is carried out on land
at the airport. The measurement of the wind is not yet
suitable for wave forecasting, then the wind data
needs to be corrected. After that, it is converted into a
wind stress factor every year as given in Table 2.
Table 2: Wind Tension Factor Average (knots).
The determination of waves with certain return
periods requires wave data in a long enough
measurement period. Representative data for several
years of wind observation can be used to estimate the
expected wave is equaled or exceeded once in T years
and the wave is known as the return wave period, T
or annual wave period , T (Pratikto et al., 2014). There
are 3 methods used to calculate the wave return
period, namely Normal, Gumbell and Log Person
distribution as given in Table 3.
Table 3: Wave Return Period.
4.2 Wave Deformation
Calculation of wave deformation is done to get the
wave breaking from the deep waters towards to the
shoreline, the calculation results is given in Table 4,
Table 5 and Table 6 for the 2 years, 5 years and 10
years return periode prediction, respectively.
Table 4: Wave deformation calculation results for the 2
years wave return period.
Direction North North East East South East
0 - 10 0,00% 0,00% 0,00% 0,00%
10 - 20 10,00% 0,83% 6,67% 0,83%
20 - 30 7,50% 0,83% 11,67% 2,50%
30 - 40 5,00% 0,83% 4,17% 1,67%
40 - 50 0,83% 0,00% 0,83% 0,00%
50 - 60 0,00% 0,00% 0,00% 0,00%
60 - 70 0,00% 0,00% 0,00% 0,00%
70 - 80 0,00% 0,00% 0,00% 0,00%
80 - 90 0,00% 0,00% 0,00% 0,00%
90 - 100 0,83% 0,00% 0,83% 0,00%
Σ 24,17% 2,50% 24,17% 5,00%
South South West West North West Σ
0,00% 0,00% 0,00% 0,00% 0,00%
3,33% 0,83% 9,17% 3,33% 35,00%
4,17% 4,17% 11,67% 0,83% 43,33%
0,83% 0,83% 2,50% 0,83% 16,67%
0,00% 0,00% 0,83% 0,00% 2,50%
0,00% 0,00% 0,00% 0,00% 0,00%
0,00% 0,00% 0,00% 0,00% 0,00%
0,00% 0,00% 0,83% 0,00% 0,83%
0,00% 0,00% 0,00% 0,00% 0,00%
0,00% 0,00% 0,00% 0,00% 1,67%
8,33% 5,83% 25,00% 5,00% 100,00%
No Year X (U
A
)
1 2004 25,02
2 2005 23,32
3 2006 35,92
4 2007 20,32
5 2008 19,91
6 2009 23,87
7 2010 27,83
8 2011 22,00
9 2012 30,65
10 2013 27,28
2 year 5 year 10 year
Normal 25,61 29,78 31,96 Knots
Gumbell 4,27 9,99 13,78 Knots
Log Person Type III 16,04 3,04 1,72 Knots
Average (U
A
) 15,31 14,27 15,82 Knots
Average (U
A
) 7,87 7,33 8,13 m/d
Duration 4 4 4 jam
Wave Height (Hs) 0,65 0,59 0,68 m
Wave Period (T) 3,75 3,55 3,75 s
Fetch 27 26 27 km
Wave Length (L
0
) 21,97 19,69 21,97 m
d/L
0
0,8194 0,9143 0,8194 m
d(m) H
0
(m) T(s) L
0
(m) Kr Ks H
0
'(m) m(slope)
H
0
'/gT
2
20 0.65 3.75 21.98 1.00 1.00 1.54 0.001 0.011
18 0.65 3.75 21.95 1.00 1.00 0.65 0.093 0.005
16 0.65 3.75 21.91 1.00 1.00 0.65 0.074 0.005
14 0.65 3.75 21.86 1.00 1.00 0.65 0.056 0.005
12 0.65 3.75 21.78 1.00 0.99 0.65 0.186 0.005
10 0.64 3.75 21.61 1.00 0.98 0.65 0.048 0.005
8 0.62 3.75 21.24 0.99 0.95 0.65 0.053 0.005
6 0.59 3.75 20.39 0.98 0.90 0.65 0.085 0.005