Dishes in Wuku Taun Traditional Ceremony as Gastronomic Tourist

Attraction in Lamajang Village

Annisa Almunfahannah

, Dewi Turgarini

and Indriyani Handyastuti

Management of Catering Industry, Indonesian University of Education, Bandung, Indonesia

Management of Event and Convention, Bandung Tourism Institute, Bandung, Indonesia

Keywords: Traditional dishes, Wuku Taun Traditional Ceremony, Gastronomy, Gastronomic Route

Abstract: Traditional food is part of a cultural heritage that has no material form is also part of the identity of a society.

Food has various functions other than as the fulfillment of physical needs. But along with the influence of

globalization society began to abandon traditional food because it is considered ancient, and difficult to make.

If this is left then the future of the food will be extinct along with the local wisdom and the story contained

therein. The focus of this research is to discuss the gastronomic value contained in foods served in the

implementation of Wuku Taun Traditional Ceremony at kampong Cikondang, Lamajang village. The food

served is made up of twenty (20) sorts of food, consist by main food, six (6) kind of side dishes, twelve (12)

kind of snacks, and one kind of Rujak. The purpose of this study was to perform a written documentation in

order to preserve the served dish and then use it as a tourist attraction. This research is a descriptive qualitative

study with ethnographic approach, this method is used to describe a cultural phenomenon in comprehensive.

Data was collected through participated observation, documentation studies and indept interview. The results

showed the gastronomic values contained in each food served in Wuku Taun Traditional Ceremony, and the

application of gastronomic routes by making the food served in Wuku Taun Traditional Ceremony as the main

attraction.

1 INTRODUCTION

Culture is a self-esteem of a nation other than the

national identity, which is the values inherited in a

community that covers all the manners in public unit.

The specificity of a culture can be seen through

expressions that are poured in the form of material and

not objects (Sedyawati 2014). The cultural heritage

consist of tangible inheritance in the form of physical

objects and intangible inheritance is an object that has

no material form and one of that includes the

traditional food (Md Ramli, Mohd Zahari, Suhaimi, &

Abdul Talib, 2016). Traditional food has its own

uniqueness that makes it interesting to serve as a

tourist attraction (Sudono, Ningsih, & Miftah, 2016).

Tourism can be used as a container to collect and

introduce traditional food to be sustainable and keep

its sustainability. The tourism industry has become

one of twelve sectors prioritized to accelerate

Indonesia's economic growth (Ningsih & Sudono,

2016). Currently, there is not a lot of research

discussing the gastronomic values contained in the

food in Indonesia, likewise with food utilization as a

tourist attraction (Turgarini, 2014).

Case in this study were conducted in kampong

Cikondang, Lamajang Village, Pangalengan Sub-

district, Bandung Regency. The people of kampong

Cikondang still maintain the habits or traditions

inherited by their ancestors, both in the view of life,

religious traditions, values of life and others. One of

the traditions implemented by the community

Cikondang is Wuku Taun traditional ceremony.

In the implementation of the ceremony community

makes various types of food consisting of the main

food, side dishes, and snacks as a complement to the

ceremony. The food served, as well as the rituals that

led to it have their own meaning and philosophy

reflecting each value of life held by the people of

Cikondang. The values and philosophy of the food

that makes it interesting to be examined and made a

tourist attraction because from the food we can know

more about the values of life and local wisdom of

indigenous peoples Cikondang because food is a

reflection and the identity of a region.

Almunfahannah, A., Turgarini, D. and Handyastuti, I.

Dishes in Wuku Taun Traditional Ceremony as Gastronomic Tourist Attraction in Lamajang Village.

DOI: 10.5220/0009787100940099

In Proceedings of the 1st NHI Tourism Forum (NTF 2019) - Enhancing Innovation in Gastronomic for Millennials, pages 94-99

ISBN: 978-989-758-495-4

2 LITERATURE REVIEW

2.1 Tourism

The term tourism was first compiled in the years 1960-

an taken from Sanskrit which is ‘pari‘, ‘wis (man)’,

and ‘ata’ which translates as “those who leave home

to travel without making a living in places that been

visited while enjoying their visit” (Pendit, 2003).

According to Undang-undang Republik Indonesia

Nomor 10 Tahun 2009 Tentang Kepariwisataan, the

development of tourism in Indonesia basically use the

concept of cultural tourism. This includes the artistic

and cultural potential owned by the form of buildings,

souvenirs, promotional materials, food and beverage

including its presentation; To build an image about

Indonesian tourism that has its own characteristic or

identity (Oka A. et all, 2006).

The elements of art and culture serve as tourist

attraction ‘objects’ as one of the efforts in the

utilization of cultural potential. The elements are

packed more interestingly to be presented to tourists.

However, in packaging this culture is necessary to

avoid harassment of religious practice done by the

community as the owner. Therefore, there is what is

called a “special interest tourism” where tourists come

to a specific object in particular. Tourists can enjoy the

‘servings’ of an amazing natural environment,

convince the unique cultural expressions, or engage in

cultural activities to get a distinctive experience

(Sedyawati dalam Oka A. et all, 2006).

(Yoeti, 1991) and (Marbun, 2002) classify things

that become objects and attractions and can attract

people to come visit a destination, namely:

 Objects that exist and are available in nature

(Natural Aime), everything that is a natural

resource.

 Human creation (man-made supply), all that

relate to cultural outcomes and human

copyrighted works.

 The ordinance of community life (The way of

life), Includes the life cycle of human birth until

the man dies.

Shaw and William (1997) in (Syarifuddin &

Nurlatipah, 2015), mentioning cultural elements that

can be a tourist attraction, that is.: (1)Craft,

(2)Tradition, (3) The history of an area or place, (4)

Architecture, (5)Local or traditional food, (6)Art and

music, (7) How to live a society, (8)Religion,

(9)language, and (10)Traditional clothing.

2.2 Traditional Ceremonies

Traditional ceremonies are a medium used to preserve

the cultural values of the generations as well as the

media to introduce the culture and traditions of the

existing community from generation to generation.

Traditional ceremonies contain local wisdom that is

interpreted through the stages and symbols used in the

process of implementing the ceremony. Through the

process of implementation, traditional ceremonies

will strengthen the emotional bonds among the

members of the community involved, through

traditional ceremonies can also be seen how the

community maintains and preserves its culture and

identity (Prasetyo, 2011). In the implementation of

rituals or traditional ceremonies, people usually

prepare offerings in the form of objects and food.

2.3 Food and Culture

Food and drink is a symbol that grows and evokes

pride and prestige, and also has an economic strength

that is not only a ' commodity ' for sale in both local

and global markets, but also as a symbol of the region

and country that attracting visitors (Beer, 2015). In the

Indonesian culture, food has various functions that are

beside for the fulfillment of physical needs, food is

used as a medium 'offerings' or commonly referred to

as sajen, also as a marker of status from those who eat

the food (Sedyawati, 2014).

The foods in the Indonesian culture cannot be

removed from the environmental influences in the

area. People create food with various minds,

knowledge and local wisdom to defend their lives by

utilizing resources from the surrounding environment.

The type of food consumed by a community is based

on the knowledge of the Society of Food. The

knowledge system of society is transformed through

the process of learning in generations so that it

becomes a tradition in the lives of people concerned.

According to the function of food can be classified as

a staple food, snacks, food, for special occasions, and

for ceremonial purposes (Sunyata, Sumarno, &

Mumfangati, 2014).

Local or traditional food signifies a specificity that

can only be found in the food of the area, both seen

from the nature of the food and the story that

complementing it. Local food can provide additional

value and contribution to tourism destinations to

contribute to the competitiveness of the area (Perez,

Granda, Lopez-Guzman, & Coronel, 2017). Local

food can play an important role for sustainable tourism

because it provides an experience that attracts tourists

through the uniqueness offered by the food.

Dishes in Wuku Taun Traditional Ceremony as Gastronomic Tourist Attraction in Lamajang Village

Local food is conceptualized as a ' authenthic '

product that symbolizes the character and culture of

the destination or the Roar visited. Through local food,

visitors can enrich their experience and knowledge

about the culture inherited in the area through the food

he consumed (Sims, 2009). The authentic Word refers

to the satisfaction of travelers to the experience

gained. Authenticity of a destination is an important

component and motivation from a tourist (Avieli,

2013).

2.4 Gastronomy

The word of “Gastronomy” derived from the Greek

language “gaster” meaning stomach and “nomas”

meaning the rule. Archesthundred in the 4th century

before A.D. wrote the “Gastronomia” which literally

translates to “rules for the stomach” which contained

a meal guide, Santich in (Turgarini, 2018). (Kivela &

Crotts, 2006) defines gastronomy as a cooking art and

good eating ordinances. On the other hand,

gastronomic is interpreted as a science that learns the

relationship between food and culture and usually

involves tasting, preparing, experimenting, searching

for experiences, researching, discovering,

understanding, and writing about food.

Soeroso (2014) in (Turgarini, 2018) defining

gastronomy as a science and art is also an appreciation

of ethnicity, nation, group, religion, gender, and

culture in learning about food and beverages used in

several situations and conditions. Based on cultural

perspective, gastronomic is a mixture of tangible and

intangible elements. Therefore, food can be used as a

cultural identity because authenticity a food

describing the identity of the region (Perez, Granda,

Lopez-Guzman, & Coronel, 2017).

Turgarini (2018) gather existing components in

gastronomic sciences into a single unit that can be

used in learning gastronomic. These components

include nine elements that connect not only to the

food-generated process but also the relationship

between food and culture owned by the community.

These components include:

 Philosophy, history, traditions and social

 Ethics and etiquette

 Cook cooking

 Raw materials

 Tasting

 Serving

 Learn, research and write food

 Looking for a unique experience

 Nutritional value.

Gastronomy is a part of the social, cultural,

economic and historical of a region and its inhabitants

that reflects the ordinances of the people's life and

preserve culture because gastronomic involves the

transfer of knowledge and information about

Community, culture, traditions and identity of the

region because the creation of a food is not separated

from the traditions and cultures in the area (López-

Guzmán & Sánchez-Cañizares, 2012).

2.5 Gastronomic Tourism

Gastronomic tourism is a means of tourists to learn

and appreciate the different cultures; The scope is

more than just studying cooking (Turgarini, 2018)

because gastronomic tours allow tourists to get in

touch with the culture of an area and know the

relationship of the past, traditions, history, and

cultural heritage manifested in agriculture,

environment, social patterns and traditions in the

processing of natural resources (Corigliano 2001).

Gastronomic tourism supports the development of

the region as a liaison between food, beverages and

tourism; strengthen the public identity; To revive and

maintain the community's contemplation.

Gastronomic tourism also plays a role in preserving

the cultural and historical heritage and passing it on

to the next generation and ensuring its sustainability

Hall et al (2003) in (Sormaz, Akmese, Gunes, & Aras,

2016).

According to (Sedyawati, 2014) Preservation is a

process that includes the efforts of protection,

development and utilization. One of the ways to

preserve a gastronomic object is to manage and utilize

the potential belonging to the object into a tourist

attraction A top priority in tourism development is

eco-culture-based tourism attraction that combines

the cultural landscape, also directed to an

environmentally friendly ecosystem-based economy

and maintains the sustainability of its surrounding

life. However, tourism development strategies are a

merger of the preservation of cultural landscapes, the

revitalization of local cuisine, and the arts (Turgarini,

2012).

2.6 Gastronomic Route

Gastronomic route becomes the most widely used

product in order to manage gastronomic objects as

tourist attractions. In general, this tourist route can be

interpreted as designing a number of activities and

attractions related to the food production process that

becomes a tourist attraction in order to represent the

identity and culture of the area visited.

NTF 2019 - The NHI Tourism Forum

The design of the gastronomic route involves

several components as an identity and something

unique to the traveller and used to facilitate access

and facilitate in enjoying and learning the

gastronomic and providing a whole experience for

tourists (Murgado, 2013). A gastronomic route will

succeed if the route utilize its gastronomic heritage as

a tourist attraction (Gheorghe, Tudorache, &

Nistoreanu, 2014).

Based on several studies conducted on the

application of gastronomic routes (Bruwer, 2003;

Ferreira & Hunter, 2017; Gatti, Incerti, & Gatti, 1997;

Murgado, 2013), the components used as reference in

making the gastronomic route are as follows:

 Visit the plantation area, farm or ranch

 Visit production area or product processing

place

 Visit the museum or places that provide

information about the product

 Tasting local specialities food and regional

products

 Buy products from local residents

 Visit the exhibition or festival

 Live in an area related to the route.

The gastronomic route is based on local attraction,

therefore the arrangement should be able to

accommodate some features that become a brand

identity or uniqueness of the area so it can display the

distinctive character owned by a route Gastronomic,

so tourists will be able to see and recognize the

difference in the gastronomic appeal of one area with

the other (Bruwer, 2003). (Bruwer, 2003).

3 METHODOLOGY

This research is a qualitative descriptive form using

ethnographic approaches. The ethnographic approach

is used to understand a cultural phenomenon of the

community in its natural environment. Ethnography

aims to describe a culture thoroughly in discovering

the hidden knowledge of a culture or community

(Emzir, 2011; Mulyana, 2010).

Data collection techniques are conducted through

observation, literature study, in-depth interviews,

documentary studies, and triangulation to analyze the

data obtained. This data collection technique involves

researchers as a research instrument that functions not

only to describe what is happening but also to explain

how it can happen (Emzir, 2011).

4 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

One of the traditions performed by the Cikondang

community is the traditional ceremony of Wuku Taun.

This traditional ceremony was done to commemorate

the Islamic New Year and was held on 15 Muharam.

In the implementation of the community presents

various kinds of food for ceremonial purposes and to

be distributed to the communities involved and to

invited guests.

4.1 Dishes in Wuku Taun Traditional

Ceremony

The food served in the traditional ceremony of Wuku

Taun consists of the main dish that is Nasi Tumpeng

consisting of three Tumpeng is called by Tilu

Tumpeng Lulugu which is made of three different

types of rice, there are white rice, glutinous rice, and

red rice. Each tumpeng is filled with one whole

chicken which has different fur colors symbolizes the

philosophy of Cikondang community i.e Ucap, Tekad,

Lampah.

The Tumpeng that is made to be distributed to the

community is called Tumpeng Pangiring; made of

white rice and stuffed with four pieces of chicken

meat. Side dish consisting oftumis kentang, tumis cabe

gendot, gorengan oncom, gorengan asin pepetek,

rempeyek, kerupuk kemplang bereum Snack

consisting of two types of opaque yaitu opak bodas dan

opak bereum, kolontong, ampeang, borondong,

pupuntir, angleng, wajit, dodol, peyeum ketan, tiwu,

pisang; and one type of rujak that is called rujak suro.

Each type of food served has a philosophy and

story behind its use. Like the use of a snack that has a

sweet flavor containing philosophy that is hope that

our life always feel a sweet or good thing. Then the

use of vegetable resources as a side dish because of

economic politics conducted by the Dutch in the 15th

century that focuses West Java region as a producer of

commodity crops and form a diet of Sundanese people

who do not Oriented to animal resource (Rahman,

2018).

Most of the ingredients is obtained from the

surrounding community which gives it to the

traditional house from generation to generation

(ngiring). The implementation of traditional

ceremonies is a form of gratitude to Almighty God for

wealth and previous life, and look forward to a better

life in the future.

Preparation of food making starts from 1 Muharam

to 14 Muharam. Preparations include the process of

rice harvesting, snack making, the taking of firewood

and banana leaves into the forest, making packaging

Dishes in Wuku Taun Traditional Ceremony as Gastronomic Tourist Attraction in Lamajang Village

from banana leaves, and preparing all the needs

needed for the implementation of traditional

ceremonies. On the date of 10-12 Muharam usually

people flock to give the accompaniment of rice,

seasoning, salt, crackers and others as ingredients to

make food. On the date of 15 Muharam carried out the

process of making tilu tumpeng lulugu, tumpeng

pangiring, tumis kentang and tumis cabe gendot.

During preparation and implementation there are

provisions that must be complied by all parties

involved. The procedure of processing and knowledge

of food is inherited by the ancestors to the people from

generations from ancestors to their descendants, so

that the division of tasks in preparation until the

implementation of ceremonial procession is based on

descent.

The type of food made is a typical food that is

commonly made by the community Cikondang good

for ceremonial purposes, hajatan, as a daily food, as a

food to entertain and serve as a souvenir to the guest.

In the making of food, the ancestors of the people

slipped various meanings and philosophies related to

the food, because the food is used as a media of

learning and reflection of life for the community. The

selection of food types served and the material used is

a little much influenced by natural conditions, socio-

cultural and the history of the community Cikondang

especially and Sundanese people generally in the past.

Likewise the tools used are still using traditional

cookware and packaging.

4.2 The Design of Gastronomic Route

Activities conducted in the gastronomic route include

visits to farms and ranch, production place, tasting

food, and seeing the traditional rituals carried out. This

route can be used as a guide for tourists who come to

Kampung Cikondang at the time of Muharam. This

gastronomic route can also be used as a research

material for local governments to develop and manage

gastronomic tourism in Lamajang village.

Through this route is expected that tourists can get

an authentic experience and get the value of the food

served through activities performed and stories

delivered in gastronomic tourism activities.

5 CONCLUSION

The food served at the traditional ceremony of Wuku

Taun has a philosophy of values and good teachings

for people in life. The type of food served at the

traditional ceremony of Wuku Taun can not be

removed from the geographical and socio-cultural

conditions of the people of ancient times, because the

food served is a representation of the potential natural

resources and local wisdom and Community-owned

culture.

In the process of making the food, people still hold

and implement the provisions and rules taught by his

ancestors. Recipes used are still using recipes and

traditional way of processing and using traditional

tools to cook, serve, eat and pack those foods.

The gastronomic route can be used as one way to

utilize the uniqueness and gastronomic values of the

food served in the traditional ceremony of Wuku Taun

as a gastronomic attraction.

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Dishes in Wuku Taun Traditional Ceremony as Gastronomic Tourist Attraction in Lamajang Village