Moisturizing Lotion Formulation on Tropical Skin based on Cananga

Oil (Cananga odorata), Kaffir Lime Oil (Citrus hystrix DC) and

Patchouli Oil (Pogostemon cablin) as a Bioactive

Vivi Nurhadianty

1,2

, Indah Amalia Amri

, Safira Kanza

, Luh Putu Maharani

and Chandrawati

Cahyani

1,2

Department of Chemical Engineering, Faculty of Engineering, Brawijaya University

Institut Atsiri, Brawijaya University

Department of Animal Medicine, Faculty of Animal Medicine, Brawijaya University

Keywords: Cananga Oil, Kaffir Lime Oil, Patchouli Oil, Bioactive, Moisturizing Lotion.

Abstract: Indonesia is a tropical country with an average room temperature 37

C and humidity in each region are varies.

These conditions make the skin sweat so that the skin loses water. If it left unchecked, it can cause a variety

of skin diseases. Proper moisturizer can reduce and prevent damage to the skin. Essential oils have specific

bioactive contents such as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Previous research

has shown that Cananga oil has high anti-bacterial and antioxidant activity (close to 80% ascorbic acid).

Citronellal compounds in kaffir lime oil can be used as an antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory. In addition

to essential oils, sunflower seed oil is used as a carrier oil to prevent irritation due to high concentrations of

essential oils. Sunflower Oil contains oleic and linoleic acids which can improve water absorption in the skin

as well as antioxidants. Research on the process of extracting essential oils has been widely carried out, but

the use of essential oils that have bioactive content has not been done much. Lotion is one of skin care that is

commonly used on the skin. This research aims to get the best formulation in making cananga oil, kaffir lime

oil, patchouli oil based lotion which have high antioxidant activity, high hydration effect and good

consistency. Essential oils as active ingredients are added with various compositions then formulated and

tested in vivo and in vitro. The urgency of this research is to get a lotion formulation from essential ingredients

suitable for the skin of the tropics so that later it can be eliminated and support UB especially in welcoming

PTNBH. The results showed that the lotion is stabled after stability testing for 7 cycles of cooling 4oC and

heating 40

C. The pH test results also indicate that the lotion has a pH between 7.05 - 7.95 which is in

accordance with SNI standards. The lotion spread test shows that the greater the load given, the greater the

spread diameter of the lotion. The best lotion dispersion is found in Formula V4, W2 with a bio active

concentration: base lotion of 1:11,5. For the results of in vitro testing of mice, it was found that there is no

lotion formula that causes allergies.

1 INTRODUCTION

Indonesia is a tropical country with an average room

temperature 37

C and humidity in each region are

varies. The hot conditions make the skin sweat so that

the skin will lose water. The skin is composed of two

layers, namely the epidermis and dermis. The

epidermis is selectively permeable, heterogeneous,

which protects the skin from dryness and

environmental injury and retains enough water to

function in a dry environment (Rawling and Harding,

2004). The terms eczema and dermatitis are often

used to describe the same condition. Dermatitis is

non-inflammatory inflammation of the skin that is

acute, subacute, or chronic, and is influenced by many

factors, such as constitutional factors, irritants,

allergens, heat, stress, infections, etc. (Daili et al.,

2005).

Proper moisturizer can reduce and prevent

damage to the skin. One applicative moisturizing

product that is commonly used is lotion . The body

has a mechanism to protect itself from damage as a

result of excess free radicals in the body. However, in

certain conditions the body is not able to cope, so it

needs additional from outside. Lotion is a material

106

Nurhadianty, V., Amalia Amri, I., Kanza, S., Putu Maharani, L. and Cahyani, C.

Moisturizing Lotion Formulation on Tropical Skin based on Cananga Oil (Cananga odorata), Kafﬁr Lime Oil (Citrus hystrix DC) and Patchouli Oil (Pogostemon cablin) as a Bioactive.

DOI: 10.5220/0009957601060111

In Proceedings of the 2nd International Conference of Essential Oils (ICEO 2019), pages 106-111

ISBN: 978-989-758-456-5

that can be used to overcome these problems

(Faramayuda et al., 2010). Lotion is used as a skin

protector that is able to protect from exposure to ultra

violet (UV), where the rays that cause free radicals in

the skin (Leu et al., 2006).

Essential oils have specific bioactive content such

as antioxidants, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial

properties. Kusuma et al (2014) evaluated several

Indonesian plants used by the interior, one of them is

Cananga odorata. The results show that C. odorata

has high anti-bacterial and antioxidant activity. DPPH

testing at 50 ppm obtained 80% antioxidant results

compared with ascorbic acid.

Main compound of Kaffir lime oil is citronellal.

Citronellal compounds (aldehydes) can be used as

antimicrobial and anti- inflammatory (Rao, 2006).

Warsito et al. (2017) investigated the antioxidant and

antimicrobial activity of Kaffir Lime Oil compared to

BHT (Butylated hydroxytoluene). IC 50 value of

kaffir lime oil compared with BHT was not

significantly different.

Patchouli Oil is an essential ingredient in

cosmetics because it possesses an antidepressant,

antiphlogistic, antiseptic, aphrodisiac, astringent,

cicatrisant, cytophylactic, deodorant, diuretic,

febrifuge, fungicide, insecticide, sedative, tonic,

cicatrisant, cytophylactic, deodorant, stimulants, and

euphoric. Patchouli oil can also be used as a fixative

(fragrance binder) in the perfume, cosmetics, soap,

medicines, and others (Karimi, 2014).

The antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and

antibacterial properties of essential oils are very

potential to be used as bioactives in moisturizers.

Many studies have been carried out on essential

properties and essential phytochemicals. However,

the existing problems regarding the formulations used

in making lotions capable of having antioxidant, anti-

inflammatory and high hydration effects with good

consistency levels have not been studied.

This research is focused on the use of cananga oil,

kaffir lime oil, patchouli oil in various compositions

as a bioactive in formulated lotions as moisturizing

on tropical skin. The purpose of this study is to get the

right formulation in making lotions from active

ingredients of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory

essential oils. The right formulation for making

lotions is able to provide high antioxidant and anti-

inflammatory activity for tropical skin.

2 MATERIAL AND METHOD

2.1 Material

The main raw material in this research are base lotion,

cananga oil, kaffir lime oil and patchouli oil. The

carrier oil is sunflower seed oil. The main equipment

used is overhead stirrer, hot plate, and laboratory

glassware.

2.2 Method

The first stage of this research is blending the

bioactive-oils from essential oils: Cananga Oil

(Cananga odorata), Kaffir Lime Oil (Citrus hystrix

DC) and Patchouli Oil (Pogostemon cablin). The

formulation ratio is shown on Table 1. The blending

is started with take each of raw materials in

accordance with. The essential oil then put in a stirred

tank. Stirring was carried out at a speed of 60 rpm

(constant) with a temperature of 60

C to 62

C for 15

minutes.

Table 1:

Composition of Essential Oils each Variable

1:9

1:11,5

Cananga Oil = 25%

Minyak Jerut Purut = 0%

Pathouli Oil = 25%

Sunflower Seed Oil = 50%

V1,W1 V1,W2

Cananga Oil = 0%

Kaffir Lime Oil = 25%

Pathouli Oil = 25%

Sunflower Seed Oil = 50%

V2,W1 V2,W2

Cananga Oil = 15%

Kaffir Lime Oil = 15%

Pathouli Oil = 20%

Sunflower Seed Oil = 50%

V3,W1 V3,W2

Cananga Oil = 10%

Kaffir Lime Oil = 10%

Pathouli Oil = 30%

Sunflower Seed Oil = 50%

V4,W1 V4,W2

The second stage of this research is making

lotions. The ingredients used are stearic acid, glyceril

monostearate, glycerol, vaseline, triethanolamine,

water and blending Essential Oil (Variable in step 1)

which is the active ingredient in the lotion. The

principle of making skin lotion is mixing several

Bioactive :

base lotion

Formulation

Moisturizing Lotion Formulation on Tropical Skin based on Cananga Oil (Cananga odorata), Kafﬁr Lime Oil (Citrus hystrix DC) and

Patchouli Oil (Pogostemon cablin) as a Bioactive

107

ingredients accompanied by stirring and heating.

Material is separated into two parts: oil-soluble

material and water-soluble material. Ingredients

included in the oil phase include stearic acid, glyceryl

monostearate, and vaseline. Materials including the

water phase include glycerol, triethanolamine, and

water. The oil phase is mixed until homogeneous with

70-75

C. heating. The water phase is mixed until

homogeneous with 70-75

C. heating. Then both

materials are mixed at 70°C. After that, the stirring is

continued for 30 minutes at a constant speed to form

a skin lotion .

After getting the lotion formulation with various

variables that have been written in table 2, then some

testing is done, namely :

1. Lotion Stability Evaluation

Test is conducted by way of storing the

preparation lotion at a temperature cold 4

C for 24

hours, then removed and placed in a temperature

of 40

C for 24 hours, the process is calculated as

1 cycle. This experiment was carried out for 7

cycles. Then the results of the cycling test are

compared with previous preparations. It can be

observed whether the lotion remains stable in cold

condition or at hot temperature.

2. Evaluation of Power adhesive

Test is done by putting 0.25 mL samples of the

lotion above 2 glass object that has been

determined. Then pressed with a load of 1 kg for

5 minutes. After that, the load is lifted from glass

object then glass object mounted on the test

equipment. Then, the test equipment was given a

load of 80 grams and then recorded the time of

release of the cream from the glass object.

3. In Vivo Test

In Vivo Test is a test that is using animals or can

be directly on humans in accordance with the rules

of the Commission Eligible Ethics Brawijaya

University. As many 1mL of lotion is given to the

white rat (Rattus novergicus) except the tail. Then

it observed for 4 hours.

4. In vitro test

a. Measurement of pH and viscosity of lotions

The pH of the lotion can be measured with a

digital pH meter (Mettler & Toledo, Giessen,

Germany) by inserting a probe into the lotion

formulation and leaving it for 1 minute to

stabilized. Viscosity measurements were carried

out using the Brookfield Viscometer Model

RVTDV II (Stoughton, MA). The C-50 spindle is

used with a rotation rate of 220 rpm. The gap

value is set to 0.3 mm. Temperature was set at 25°

C ± 2 and this experiment was repeated three

times to obtain statistically significant data.

b. Determination of the spreadability and

homogenisity

A total of 0.5 grams of lotion is placed with

caution on paper charts that coated with plastic

transparent, It left for 15 seconds and spacious

area that is given by the dosage is calculated. After

that, it closed again with plastic and then give a

loads with weight 1, 2, and 5 g and left for 60

seconds. The increment area which is given by the

dosage can be calculated using the formula (

Voigth , 1994)

5. Organoleptic examination

Fifty person were examined the organoleptic

which includes the color, aroma, texture,

moisture, viscosity and homogenity.

3 RESULT AND DISCUSSION

3.1 Effect of Bioactive in Lotion

Stability

Lotion is an emulsion formed by mixing the oil phase

and water phase. In guaranteeing lotion products, the

emulsion needs to be maintained so that it remains

stable or does not form a layer of oil and water. The

lotion stability test is carried out in 7 cycles, where in

each cycle the lotion is placed in a very cold

environment (4

C) and hot environment (40

alternately. Figure 1 and Figure 2 shows lotion

stability in each cycle.

Figure 1: The lotion stability in ((A) Cycle 1, (B) Cycle 2,

ICEO 2019 - 2nd International Conference of Essential Oil Indonesia

108

Figure 2: The lotion stability in (D) S cycle 4 , (E) Cycle 5,

(F) Cycle 6, (G) Cycle 7

Figure 1. shows the stability of lotions in cycles

1, 2 and 3. It appears that the emulsion lotion does not

form a layer, this means that the lotion is stable or

homogeneous until the third cycle. Likewise in Figure

6, the lotion in cycles 4, 5, 6 and 7 remains stable and

does not form a layer of oil / water. Antioxidants

contained in active ingredients can prevent rancidity

and discoloration caused by oxidation, besides that

antioxidants are able to counteract the absorption of

free radicals that can cause damage to the skin

(Maysuhara, 2009). Observation from the first cycle

to seven showed no change in color or odor. This

indicates there are antioxidants that inhibit rancidity

and color degradation in the lotion.

3.2 Effects of Bio-active Addition on

Lotion pH

The pH value of the lotion with the addition of

ingredients bio- active with the variables contained in

Table 3.1 ranged from 7.0 5 to 7.95 . Based on SNI

164399-1996 the pH value of skin moisturizers

ranges from 4.5 to 8.0 (Purwaningsih et al, 2014). The

pH value of the lotion still within that range.

The effect of the addition of bio-active on the pH

of the lotion is shown in figure 6. From the graph it

also obtained that the highest pH is at variable 4 are

7.95 and 7.93 in the variable W1 and W2.

Figure 3: Graph of the effect of adding bio- active to pH

lotion .

3.3 Effect of Bio-active on the Spread of

Lotion

The spread test is used to determine the ability of

lotion to spread when applied to the skin. With the

addition of load on the lotion, there will be a change

in the diameter of its spread. The following is Figure

7 Graph The relationship of load to the spreadability

of lotion formulas 1 to formula 8.

From the figure 4 shows that the formula V4, W2

has a dispersive power largest compared to other

formulas. The figure also shows that the heavier the

load given to the lotion, the wider the spread of the

lotion. The thing that causes the difference in the

spread of lotion is the comparison of active

ingredients with base lotion. By comparison of active

ingredients: base lotion of 1: 11.5 at V1, W2; V2, W2

and V4, W2 causes the lotion dispersion ability to be

higher. According to Safitri (2014), the higher the

spread of lotion, the easier the lotion to be applied to

the skin.

3.4 In-Vivo Test

The skin is the outer and widest body protector, which

serves to protect the body from environmental

influences. According to Dr. Ruri D Pamela (2018)

there are five characteristics of healthy skin, namely:

1. Clean, not necessarily white, but healthy skin can

be seen in plain eyes 2. Evenly colored 3. Good

elasticity, 4. Does not feel anything, examples of

pain, heat or tenderness and 5. Smooth and soft

texture. One way to love the skin is to treat and protect

it well. Clean body skin with a clean bath, then apply

skin with lotion to keep it moist.

Moisturizing Lotion Formulation on Tropical Skin based on Cananga Oil (Cananga odorata), Kafﬁr Lime Oil (Citrus hystrix DC) and

Patchouli Oil (Pogostemon cablin) as a Bioactive

109

Figure 4: Lotion Scatter Graphic

Figure 5: Figure of lotion testing on mice before and after

applying lotion ((a) testing variable lotion 1, (b) testing

variable lotion 2, (c) testing variable lotion 3, (d) testing

variable lotion 4, (e) testing lotion variable 7.

In this study an in vitro lotion formulation was tested

on mice, to see the effect of giving lotion

formulations (V1,W1 - V4,W2 ) to the skins of mice.

L otion with formulations (V1,W1 - V4,W2) is said

to be an antigen or foreign body that is exposed to

mice via the topical that can be seen in the image

below this.

The variables observed in this study were

inflammatory or inflammatory reactions marked by

itching, redness, swelling and heat. From the

observation above we get lotion formulations V1, W1

-V4, W2 do not cause allergic reactions or

inflammation in white rat.

4.5 Organoleptic Test

The organoleptic test, we checked the lotion in term

of color, aroma, texture, moisture, viscosity and

homogenity. The test have a positive reaction from

respondent. More than 50% respondent showed that

they like the lotion in term of color, texture, moisture,

viscosity and homogenity.

However, with regard to aroma, respondent gave

a variative responses. The most positive reaction is

V1,W2 with 24% respondent really like the aroma

and 24% like the aroma. Formula V4,W2 is also get a

positive reaction with 17% respondent really like the

aroma and 35% like the aroma. The most negative

feedback is V2,W1 with 28% hate the aroma and 21%

really hate the aroma. The reason respondent hate the

aroma is due to the aroma is too pungent and not

familiar.

5 CONCLUSIONS

Based on the results and discussion it can be

concluded as follows:

1. The antioxidant activity of bioactive can prevent

the lotion from rancidity, destabilization of the

emulsion and discoloration.

2. The addition of bioactive to the lotion can provide

anti-inflammatory effects in experimental

animals.

3. The best formula of lotion is V1,W2 in terms of

pH, spreadability, in vivo test and organoleptic

test.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Authors would say thank to Lembaga Penelitian dan

Pengabdian Masyarakat (LPPM) Bwawijaya

University for the financial support of this research.

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Moisturizing Lotion Formulation on Tropical Skin based on Cananga Oil (Cananga odorata), Kafﬁr Lime Oil (Citrus hystrix DC) and

Patchouli Oil (Pogostemon cablin) as a Bioactive

111