Potential Effect of Musa paradisiaca Peel Extract on Skin Hydration

Wianlie Cendana

, Diadora

, Albert Daniel Saragih

, Ahmad Raif Martinus

, Refi Ikhtiari

1,2

1Laboratory of Biomolecular Chemistry, Graduate School of Biomedical Science

Universitas Prima Indonesia

2Laboratory of Materials Chemistry, Faculty of Industrial Engineering,

Universitas Prima Indonesia

Emails: (wianlie, diadora, albert, ahmadraif, refiikhtiari)@unprimdn.ac.id

Keywords: Kepok peel extract, skin hydration, antiaging

Abstract: Dry skin is a common skin aging process in a tropical country, like Indonesia. The aging process is related

to the increase in the level of the radical compound or known as oxidative stress. The use of moisturizers

with active components from plants that are rich in antioxidants such as Kepok banana peels are not yet

fully studied. This study aims to reveal the antioxidant activities and effectiveness of Kepok banana peel

(Musa paradisiaca L.) extract in a moisturizing formulation to increase skin hydration. Banana peel extract

formulated into cream dosage forms. Evaluation of the cream forms, including homogeneity, pH, emulsion

type, cream stability, and irritation test. Then, determine skin hydration level on day 0 (before application),

, 14

, 21

, 28

day after topical application. Significant increase in skin hydration after the use of

Banana peel extract cream for 4 weeks, the highest in the F3 formula (7,5% Kepok banana peel extract

cream) Kepok banana peel has antioxidant activity and the cream formulation of kepok banana peel has

been shown to improve skin hydration.

1 INTRODUCTION

Skin dryness or xerosis is a skin problem found in

countries with tropical complications such as

Indonesia and the incidence of xerosis increases with

aging. Increasing age will decrease the number and

function of the main lipid barrier, so that it will

aggravate the problem of skin dryness (Robert Baran,

2010).

The regulation of skin hydration is related to the

balance between the exit and entry of fluid in the

stratum corneum (SC). The entry of endogenous

fluid comes from the diffusion process from the

dermis to the skin surface and also the secretion of

sweat glands. Exogenous intake increases when

humidity is relatively high. Defects or deficiencies

in the skin barrier layer will cause increased

evaporation from water, known as TEWL (trans-

epidermal water loss) (Baumann, 2012).

Skin moisture is correlated to three factors; the

speed of fluid reaching the stratum corneum of the

lower layer (eccrine glands, transepidermal transfer),

the speed of fluid evaporation and the ability of the

stratum corneum to hold fluids depends on the

integrity of the hydrolipid layer, the presence of

NMF, sufficient availability of intercellular water,

membrane integrity cells and intercellular semen

derived from supporting lipids.

In healthy skin, skin cells namely corneocytes

will be separated from neighboring cells / those next

to it, which will fall into the surrounding

environment and be replaced with cells that are

younger than the deeper layers. This regular process

will cause corneocytes or skin cells to loose from the

surface of the skin or called desquamation.

Desquamation is regulated by two intercellular

components, namely corneodesmosomes and lipids.

The intercellular action of these two components

will maintain skin thickness. Corneodesmosomes

bind corneocytes to maintain cohesion from

intercellular and tissue integrity. For the

effectiveness of desquamation, corneodesmosomes

must eventually be broken down. This process is

called corneodesmolysis. The corneodesmolysis is

effective in eliminating corneodesmosomes. In

contrast to xerotic skin, corneodesmosomes persist

and interfere with regular desquamation processes.

In acute and chronic conditions of dry skin, this

disrupted process manifests with clear skin

formation, such as whitish powdery flakes on the

Cendana, W., Diadora, ., Saragih, A., Martinus, A. and Ikhtiari, R.

Potential Effect of Musa paradisiaca Peel Extract on Skin Hydration.

DOI: 10.5220/0009515803790386

In Proceedings of the International Conference on Health Informatics and Medical Application Technology (ICHIMAT 2019), pages 379-386

ISBN: 978-989-758-460-2

379

surface of the skin (Norman, 2008). However, free

water content needs to control the corneodesmolysis

process. Adequate levels of fat are needed to

maintain the water content. Skin is not properly

hydrated cannot provide this water. For that deficit

in skin hydration and fat components contribute to

xerosis. Therefore, the ability of the skin to retain

moisture and maintain an effective barrier is crucial

for xerosis in the skin of elderly patients (Norman,

2008).

To overcome dry skin problem, TEWL (trans-

epidermal water loss) should be reduced by

providing hydrated and moisturizing ingredients that

are water soluble and lubricating and occlusion

which is not soluble in water. Moisturizer is believed

to prevent water loss through transepidermal through

the occlusion. Although the Stratum corneum (SC)

acts as dead tissue, it also acts as an active

membrane that acts as a brick and mortar. Loss of

intercellular lipids/fats such as ceramides,

cholesterol and fatty acids that form bilayers,

damaging water-limiting formations that cause dry

skin. Dry skin occurs if the moisturizing content <10%

and loss of continuity of the stratum corneum occurs

(Sethi, Kaur, & Gambhir, 2016).

This research is important because most of the

skin moisturizer uses synthetic ingredients while

some studies show it has side effects on long-term

use. For this reason, a study is needed to replace the

synthetic ingredients with active components of

herbs with good assistance to reduce side effects

(Okereke J.N., 2015).

The interesting thing from this research is that

we can utilize the kepok banana peels that are

released daily as organic waste into skin

moisturizing ingredients that have a beneficial

selling value. Based on government data the

production of bananas in Indonesia in 2011 reached

6,189,052 tons. Banana peels is 1/3 from unripe

bananas, so the amount of banana peels was

2,063,017 tons per year in Indonesia. Kepok banana

was chosen in this study because it has a thicker skin

compared to other banana peels. Banana peels have

higher antioxidant activity compared to their flesh

(Riska Afliani, 2014) but the research is still limited

to the antioxidant test of ethanol extract of meat and

peel of banana (Musa paradisiaca L.) with DPPH

method, there has been no analysis conducted on the

effectiveness of tannin on kepok banana peel on

increasing skin moisture.

Banana kepok has many types, but the famous

ones are yellow kepok banana and white kepok.

Yellow kepok flesh is yellow, while white kepok is

white. The pulp is rather hard. Yellow banana has a

sweeter and tastier taste than white kepok. Kepok

banana is not fragrant. Fruit skin is very thick. The

ripe fruit is yellowish-green. In one bunch there can

be up to 16 combs and on each comb, there are up to

20 bananas. The weight of each sign is around 14-22

kg. Fruit suiTable to be eaten in processed form

(Cahyono, 2009).

Banana plants are widely used for various

purposes of human life and are known as

multipurpose plants because, in addition to the fruit,

other plant parts can also be used, ranging from

tubers to their leaves (Cahyono, 2009). In the field

of medicine, bananas are known for their beneficial

effects on digestion and cell rejuvenation effects.

Bananas help retention of calcium, phosphorus, and

nitrogen, which helps to regenerate tissue. Also,

bananas have benefits to overcome constipation and

diarrhea, overcome dysentery, reduce the symptoms

of arthritis and gout, treat anemia, uremia, treat

menstrual problems, and allergies (Arya, 2014). The

efficacy of raw and ripe of banana peel have been

studied by Okorie et al (2015). They suggested that

mineral has play role, where as the composition

described in Table 1.

Table 1. Mineral composition of raw and ripe banana peel.

Mineral Raw peel Ripe peel

Ca 11.02 ± 1.44 6.01 ± 0.27

Mg 3.04 ± 0.06 2.31 ± 0.44

K 9.89 ± 1.17 9.83 ± 1.17

Na 6.18 ± 0.03 6.09 ± 0.13

P 0.61 ± 0.01 0.49 ± 0.01

Zn 0.95 ± 0.07 1.86 ± 0.23

Cu 0.49 ± 0.01 0.85 ± 0.07

Pb 0.07 ± 0.03 0.40 ± 0.01

Fe 215.75 ± 8.13 20.40 ± 0.57

Based on the literature studies, the benefits of

kepok banana peel extract on skin moisture with

application to the skin and analyzed with skin

analyzer have been proposed to be the objective of

this research.

ICHIMAT 2019 - International Conference on Health Informatics and Medical Application Technology

380

2 MATERIALS AND METHODS

2.1 Raw Materials and Reagents

Table 2. Musa paradisiaca L .Peel Extract Cream

Formulation

Ingredients F0 F1 F2 F3

Banana Peel

Extract (g)

- 2,5 5,0 7,5

Acetyl alcohol

(%b/b)

4 4 4 4

Glycerin

(%b/v)

15 15 15 15

TEA (%b/v)

1,5873 1,5873 1,5873 1,5873

Stearate Acid

(%b/b)

6 6 6 6

Methyl paraben

(%b/b)

0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2

Propyl paraben

(%b/b)

0,02 0,02 0,02 0,02

Aquadest 100 100 100 100

Kepok banana peels (Musa paradisiaca L.),

Methanol, Ethanol 96%, Acetyl Alcohol, Glycerin,

TEA, Stearic Acid, Methyl Paraben, Propyl Paraben,

Fragrances, Aquades, DPPH, and Quercetin.

2.2 Preparation of Sample

Kepok bananas are peeled and cut into small

pieces. Then it is drained and dried in an oven at 55 °

C until it is dry which is characterized by simplicia

which is easily broken. Dry simplicia powder

macerated with 96% ethanol solvent with sample:

solvent ratio: 1:10 for 5 days. The maserate product

is filtered and then evaporated to remove the solvent

using a rotary evaporator at 50 °C until a thick

extract is obtained.

2.3 Making Peel Extract Test Solutions

Extract weighed as much as 25 mg and dissolved

with methanol up to 25 mL, obtained a solution with

a concentration of 1000 ppm. Taken 0.25 mL; 0.5

mL; 0.75 mL; 1 mL; 1.25 mL of the 1000 ppm

extract solution, obtained concentrations of 50, 100,

150, 200, 250 ppm. Incubated for 30 minutes then

absorbance was measured using a UV-Vis

spectrophotometer at a maximum wavelength of

515.5 nm.

2.4 Peel Extract Cream Formulation

The extract of Musa paradisiaca L has been

modified to four-types of cream formulation in order

to evaluate the effect of concentration. The cream

composition was shown the Table 2.

2.5 Making Cream

The oil phase materials (stearic acid, acetyl alcohol,

and propel parabens) and the water phase (TEA,

glycerin, methylparaben and distilled water) are

separated. The oil phase and the water phase are

heated to a temperature of 70

C-80

C. After

everything is fused, put the water phase little by

little into a hot mortar containing the oil phase,

mixed with intermittent shaking to form a cream

base. Put Musa extract paradisiaca L. in mortar,

mixed with a cream base little by little, mixed until

homogeneous and put in a container.

2.6 Evaluation of the Physical Quality

Evaluation of the physical quality of the cream

preparations includes observing the homogeneity of

the preparations, determining the type of preparation

emulsions, measuring the pH of the preparations,

observing the stability of the preparations.

2.7 Determination of the Homogenity

A certain amount of preparation if applied to a piece

of glass or other suiTable transparent material, the

preparation must show a homogeneous arrangement

and no visible grain.

2.8 Determination of the Type of

Emulsion

A certain number of preparations are placed on the

beaker, 1 drop of methyl blue is added to the

preparation and then stirred. If the methyl blue is

spread evenly it means that the preparation is a type

of emulsion m / a, but if only the blue spots means

the preparation is a type of emulsion a / m.

2.9 Measuring the pH

Determination of the pH of the preparation is done

using a pH meter. The instrument is calibrated using

a neutral solution (pH 7.01) and an acidic buffer (pH

Potential Effect of Musa paradisiaca Peel Extract on Skin Hydration

381

4.01) until the instrument shows the pH value. Then

the electrodes are washed with distilled water. Then

dried with tissue. The sample is made in a

concentration of 1%, weighing 1 gram of the

preparation and dissolved in 100 ml distilled water.

Then the electrode is dipped in the water solution.

Leaving the device shows the pH value to a constant.

The number indicated by the pH meter is the pH of

the preparation. Observations were made at room

temperature (15 ° C-30 ° C) for 12 weeks.

2.10 Observation of Cream Stability

A total of 100 g of each preparation formula is put

into a plastic pot. Furthermore, observations were

made in the form of changes in consistency, color

and aroma when the preparation was made and in

storage for 12 weeks. In this study, the stability of

the preparation at room temperature (15°C- 30°C)

was observed for 12 weeks of storage.

2.11 Moisturizing Activity Test of Musa

Paradisiaca L. Extract

2.11.1 Irritation Test

All samples that met the criteria were tested patched.

Patch tests were carried out by applying the results

of the Kepok banana extract cream formulation with

the highest active ingredient (F3) on the back of the

right ear and the back of the left ear for F0 basis as a

comparison. Testing is carried out for 24 hours for

each volunteer. Symptoms that arise are observed,

the skin reaction immediately after sticking and

touching the skin, such irritation is called primary

irritation, but if this reaction occurs several hours

after touching and sticking to the skin, then this

irritation is called secondary irritation (Ditjen POM,

1985)

2.11.2 Moisturizing Activity Test

Samples that did not experience allergies and

irritations, then conducted an application trial of

Kepok banana peel extract cream for 4 weeks. The

grouping is divided into: Group I: 10 people testing

for the blank formula (F0) , Group II: 10 people

testing for the formula 2.5% (F1) , Group III: 10

people testing for the 5% formula (F2), and Group

IV: 10 people testing for the 7.5% formula (F3)

Kepok banana peel extract cream was applied to

the volar region of the right arm with a size of 3 x 4

cm by 1 ml (using a syringe). To reduce bias,

samples are asked not to use cosmetic products in

the test area 2 weeks before the study and protect the

test area from direct sunlight. Skin hydration

measurements were performed at the beginning of

the study using a skin analyzer on day 0 (before the

application of extract cream), day 7, day 14, day 21

and day 28. Before measurement all samples were

asked to be in the lab for 15 minutes at 25

C so that

the skin can acclimatize at room temperature.

2.12 Data Processing and Analysis

The data that has been collected was processed using

the SPSS software and data was discussed in

accordance with the existing literature.

3 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

Based on the extraction of Kepok banana peel

samples carried out by maceration technique with 96%

ethanol for five days started from a dried simplisia

600 gr will resulted a brownish thick extract 85 gr

with yield of 14.16%, and smells of banana.

Figure 1. Musa paradisiaca L .sliced peels after

maceration (a) and thick peels extract (b)

The cream was made by a modified standard

formula. Kepok banana peel extract was used to

make cream preparations in a concentration of 2.5%;

5%; 7.5% and blank. Cream preparations obtained in

the form of whitish-yellow cream with the smell of

bananas.

ICHIMAT 2019 - International Conference on Health Informatics and Medical Application Technology

382

Figure 2. Cream preparation of blank (F0), peel extract

2.5 % (F1), 5% (F2), 7.5% (F3).

The homogenity examination results on Kepok

banana skin cream were found to be homogeneous,

there were no coarse grains. The results of the type

of cream emulsion test showed that the methyl blue

color could be homogeneous or spread evenly in the

cream so that it could be proven that the cream

preparations made had an oil-type emulsion in water

(m/a).

Figure 3. Cream homogenity of blank (F0), peel extract

2.5 % (F1), 5% (F2), 7.5% (F3).

The results of the cream preparation emulsion

test showed that the methyl blue color can be

homogeneous or evenly distributed in the cream so

that it can be proven that the cream preparations

made have an oil-in-water emulsion type (m/a).

Each formula that has been observed for 90 days

gives good results that is not experiencing changes

in color, odor and phase separation.

Figure 4. Cream emulsion test of blank (F0), peel

extract 2.5 % (F1), 5% (F2), 7.5% (F3).

The pH measurements made at the time after the

preparation is complete, then after the deposit of the

first week to 12 weeks. The results of the

measurement of the pH of each formula showed that

with increasing concentrations of Kepok banana peel

extract, the pH of the preparations was getting lower,

but the change was still within the standard pH

requirements for cream preparations, namely

between pH 5-8 (Tranggono, 2007). The observation

of pH measurements is described in the Table 3 to

evaluate the effect of concentration.

Table 3. The pH of blank (F0), peel extract 2.5 % (F1),

5% (F2), 7.5% (F3) observed during 12 weeks.

pH in

Avg for

weeks

Formula

F0 F1 F2 F3

0 7.7 7.3 7.2 7.2

1 7.5 7.2 7.2 7.3

2 7.2 7.0 7.2 7.3

3 7.0 7.1 7.3 7.2

4 7.1 7.2 7.2 7.1

5 7.2 7.1 7.2 7.1

6 7.1 7.1 7.3 7.1

7 7.2 7.2 7.2 7.0

8 7.1 7.1 7.3 7.1

9 7.0 7.0 7.4 7.1

10 7.0 7.1 7.4 7.2

11 7.0 7.1 7.3 7.1

12 7.1 7.0 7.4 7.1

Potential Effect of Musa paradisiaca Peel Extract on Skin Hydration

383

The instability of the formulation can be

detected in several ways with a change in physical

appearance, color, odor and phase separation from

the formulation. Generally, an emulsion is

considered physically unsTable if all or part of the

inner phase liquid is not emulsified and forms a

different layer on the surface or base of the emulsion.

Therefore, it needs to do an evaluation test for 3

months and is considered as the minimum stability

that must be had by an emulsion.

Table 4. Stability of blank (F0), peel extract 2.5 % (F1),

5% (F2), 7.5% (F3) observed during 90 days. Change of

stability indicated by (-) symbol.

Stability

for 90

days

Formula

F0 F1 F2 F3

0 -

 - - -

7 - - - -

14 -

 - - -

21 -

 - - -

28 -

 - - -

90 -

 - - -

Based on the data obtained, it shows that each

formula that has been observed for 90 days gives

good results that are not experiencing changes in

color, odor and phase separation.

The stability of a pharmaceutical preparation

can be seen from the presence of changes in color,

odor and phase separation during storage (Florence

T.A, 2009). These changes can occur if the

ingredients contained in the preparation are oxidized.

Emulsion instability phenomena, in general, are

creaming, coagulation, coalescence, and Ostwald

ripening. In creaming the sedimentation process

occurs, while coalescence describes the aggregation

that forms where particles form a homogeneous

layer. If the coalescence process occurs perfectly,

then the emulsion will separate into two phases,

which is the most sTable stage (Mitsui, 1998).

According to Ansel (1989), an emulsion

becomes unsTable due to the clumping of globules

from the dispersed phase. Damage or failure of an

emulsion preparation can be observed with a change

in color and odor changes. To overcome the damage

to ingredients due to oxidation can be done by

adding an antioxidant. Damage can also be caused

by fungi or microbes, to overcome this can be done

with the addition of preservatives. The preservatives

used in the formulation of banana peel extract cream

are methylparaben and propylparaben.

Irritation test results carried out on the skin of

volunteers obtained that there were no visible side

effects in the form of redness, itching and gauze on

the skin caused by the preparation of banana skin

extract cream which is applied to the skin. The

results of irritation tests on volunteer skin applied to

the thin skin on the back of the ear are left for 24

hours.

In the results of this study, it was seen the

increase in water content in each of the volunteer

skins, but the highest was in formula F3 (cream of

banana peel extract 7.5%). Analysis of the

effectiveness of water content was done by using

Aramo skin analyzer, test parameters measuring

moisture content (moisture). Its use is applied to the

skin of banana peel extract every morning and night.

The results on the water content obtained show

good results on blanks and cream preparations with

various concentrations. Where the increase in water

content is one of the parameters for measuring anti-

aging creams. The measurements of moisture on the

skin of volunteers is showed in the Table 5.

Table 5. Data from the measurement of water content of

Peel bana extract on the faces of volunteers after use for 4

weeks. Where as the indication of dehidration 0-29;

Normal 30-50; Hidrated 51-100 (Aramo, 2012)

Formula

Average Hydration (%)

Initial

During Application

(Weeks)

I II III IV

F0 31,6 31,9 32,3 32,5 32,7

F1 31,4 33,2 33,7 34,5 35,3

F2 31,7 34,2 35,5 36,4 37,5

F3 32,1 35,4 37,1 38,5 39,1

Based the data shown in Table 5, there is a

significant increase in skin hydration after the use of

Kepok Banana peel extract cream for 4 weeks. There

are differences in the mean skin hydration in the

examined groups (F0 and F1, F0 and F2, F0 and F3,

F1 and F2, F2 and F3). The data from Table 5 has

been evaluated to get more clear representation of

the hydration observed for 4 weeks as shown in

figure 5.

ICHIMAT 2019 - International Conference on Health Informatics and Medical Application Technology

384

Figure 5. Representation of the increase on the hydration

due to the topical application of modified cream of peel

banana extract observed for 4 weeks.

Data obtained on each parameter of water

content was tested for normality with Kolmogorov-

Smirnov, obtained p-value <0.05, so it can be

concluded that the data were not normally

distributed so that the Wilcoxon non-parametric test

was conducted, and then continued with the

Kruskal-Wallis test to find out if there were

differences the level of skin hydration before and

after the use of the cream for 4 weeks and whether

there are differences between formulas in restoring

the skin to find out which formulas there are

significant differences.

The volunteers who applied banana peel extract,

there were significant differences in skin hydration

before and after the use of the cream for 4 weeks.

There is a minimum average difference between the

2 groups examined, the difference is between the

first group and the second group examined (F0 and

F1, F0 and F2, F0 and F3, F1 and F2, F2 and F3).

According to phytochemical test studies on

banana peels carried out by Lumowa and Bardin

(2018), it was found that Kepok banana peels

contained flavonoids, alkaloids, tannins/polyphenols

saponins, and triterpenoids. Flavanoid can increase

extracellular collagen, where the increase also

causes increased moisture and elasticity in the skin

(Reveny, 2016). Banana plants have many benefits,

including effects for cell rejuvenation. Bananas help

retention of calcium, phosphorus, and nitrogen,

which helps to regenerate tissue. (Arya, 2014).

4 CONCLUSION

The improvement of skin hydration by Kepok

Banana peel extract formulated cream showed a

significant improvement (p < 0.05) with an increase

in the mean difference in dryness scores from

baseline to the end of each treatment interval of 28

days. Kepok Banana peel extract has been proven to

improve skin hydration

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

This research supported by Ministry of Research,

Technology and Higher Education by Funding

Contract No. 7/E/KPT/2019 and No.

T/63/L1.3.1/PT.01.03/2019.

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